1. Make sure you have updated to 1.2.1 version of nook firmware
2. root your nook with NookManager – graphical rooter: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2040351
   1. no need to enable wireless
   2. root device
   3. disable B&N apps
3. install HW buttons mod app from here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1991048, jar files are taken from that thread and installed like this:

adb connect 192.168.1.102
adb shell mount -o rw,remount -t ext2 /dev/block/mmcblk0p5 /system
adb push services.jar /system/framework/
adb push android.policy.jar /system/framework/
adb reboot

4. now you should install a hack for e-ink update speed increase, that is a must for web browsing
   1. you can install a fastmode kernel which looks great for applications, but not so nice for reading (it gives you multitouch + fastmode or usbhost). http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1906507
      1. fastmode application is used to disable fastmode, but I was could not enable the mode by gestures
      2. I enable it by adb: adb shell “echo 1 > /sys/devices/platform/omap3epfb.0/graphics/fb0/fmode” (best way would be to use Gscript)
      3. – how I installed kernel: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=24168019&postcount=21
   2. I prefer norefresh apk, since I’m using the device exclusively for reading, and it make a great job while reading with opera from safaribooks (opera 4 browser has binding to hardware keys for page up/down scrolling). You can download it from here: https://github.com/marspeople/NoRefreshToggle/downloads.
5. As a offline reading application I use CoolReader, it has already implemented features for e-ink fast refresh, so nothing to do for it more then simple install.